Shiny Coats - Be the Envy of Your Friends!

From the July Issue of The Stable Magazine

A shiny coat is a sign of a healthy horse – every horse owner wants to see their horses happy and healthy, so a bright and shiny coat is extremely desirable. Here are our top tips on achieving a shiny coat –and recommended products to make your horse glow with health! 

THE BASICS

Achieving a shiny coat starts with the basics.

Your brushes and combs need to be clean to be able to clean your horse effectively. Keep your brushes together and ensure you clean them regularly.  Keep your brushes in good condition. Replace your brushes when needed. If your brush has missing or flattened bristles it will be much less effective in giving a good end result. Always buy the best quality grooming tools you can afford - and get stuck in with the elbow grease! Regular grooming is one key element to a shiny coat. Grooming thoroughly at least a few times a week will assist in keeping the coat clean and healthy. Regular grooming will also help to remove dead hair from the coat, and as an added bonus, the very action of grooming will stimulate the horse’s circulation.

The most effective way to groom your horse is to use a soft and flexible rubber curry comb all over the horse’s body (although not on the lower legs or face). This helps to increase the horse’s blood circulation and brings dirt to the surface. You should then use good quality brushes in a ‘flicking’ motion to rid the coat from dirt, loose hairs, scurf and dried sweat. Some cheap synthetic brushes will allow the dirt to stick to the brush fibres, meaning that each time you groom your horse, the dirt ends up on the brush and back on the horse. As you’re grooming, you can clean your brush as you go by holding your brush in one hand and your curry comb in the other.  Every few brush strokes, run your brush over your curry comb to remove dead dry skin and scurf from the brush. After you have removed all of the loose dirt and dust from the coat, use a finishing brush to remove any last fine dirt particles and to brush the coat flat and smooth.

DID YOU KNOW?

The horse grows a winter coat and sheds in the warmer months mostly in response to the shortening or lengthening of daylight.

DULL COATS

A dull coat is a sign of ill-health and should be addressed immediately. It’s your indicator on the outside that something is wrong on the inside. If your horse has a dull coat, you must first look into your worming program. Your horse should be on a rotational worming program, and you should also have a good manure management plan. (See The Stable, April 2013 issue)

The next point to address is whether or not you are meeting your horse’s nutritional requirements. If your horse isn’t receiving the energy he requires, or the right balance of vitamins and minerals, and the right amount of fats and oils in his diet, it will show in his coat. Sometimes it will be necessary to supplement your horse with these vitamins and minerals, as there is a slim chance that your grazing, pasture or grains alone will be sufficient. There are some good quality supplements designed to help improve the coat (and usually the hooves, as well!)

DID YOU KNOW?

The shine on your horse is the coat (and hair's!) ability to reflect light. Horses of solid dark colours shine magnificently - like blacks and bays - while it's much more difficult to see the shine on the coat of a grey horse!

OILS

The addition of oils (fatty acids) to a horse’s feed can help to improve the shine of his coat. Oils can be added in the forms of raw oils - such as vegetable oil, canola oil, coconut oil or rice bran oil. Half a cup to a cup of oil in his feed should be enough to increase the essential fatty acids in your horse’s diet. Some oils are enriched with Omega 3’s and 6’s - which also can help to increase the shine on your horse’s coat. You can also boost your horse’s intake of fatty acids through adding soybean meal, or sunflower seeds - which are rich in sunflower oil when intact. As with all diet changes, introduce new feeds over a period of time, and ask your vet or an equine nutritionist if in doubt.

INFECTIONS, FUNGUS & HYGIENE

Fungal infections and skin problems are a common problem for horse owners. In certain times of year, the elements and climate is always throwing something at us. Problems that affect the horse’s coat include mud fever, rainscald and fungal infections. You should use a treatment appropriate to the condition your horse has. A good anti-bacterial shampoo will help to keep the infection under control.

You should also wash your brushes and grooming equipment regularly in a disinfectant to kill any germs that may re-infect your horse. Ideally, your should have a separate grooming kit for each horse, as brushes can harbour the bacteria and fungus - meaning that you could spread the disease to the next horse via the same brush.

WINTER GROOMING

Keeping your horse’s legs free from mud in winter months is almost impossible - but you need to work to remove dried, caked on mud from the lower legs. Mud fever or greasy heel thrives when caked on mud is left on your horse’s legs. Attack it with a stiff bristled brush, and remove as much dirt as possible. Regular grooming in winter is important. Make sure you remove your horse’s rugs regularly to check his condition, to look for any lumps, bumps or nasties, and to remove any build up of dead skin or scurf from under his rugs. If you’re riding in winter, regardless of whether your horse is clipped or not, be sure to remove all traces of dirt from underneath your tack. If you don’t your horse may end up with painful girth galls or saddle sores from mud, dirt or other irritants underneath the saddle, girth or bridle.

WASH YOUR RUGS

Wash your rugs regularly to avoid a build up of dried sweat and dirt from the horse’s coat. Cleaning your rugs once every couple of weeks will help to keep the cleaner and neater - and will make your spring grooming a much less daunting job.

GETTING THE TAIL OF YOUR DREAMS

It’s not always as easy as it sounds. Some horses have just a wisp of a tail (hands up appy owners?!), and while it might suit the horse’s purpose, it’s not necessarily the long, luxurious tail you had in mind. Never fear - there are some things you can do to improve the condition of your horse’s tail.

TAILS ARE SLOW GROWING

How long do you think it takes for those strands of hair to reach to the ground? Quite a long time! While hair can grow quickly from the dock, it’s the longer hairs in the tail that you want to strengthen and condition - so there’s less tail hair damage and breakage. The more strands that break away or split, the thinner your horse’s tail will be.

PUT THE COMB AWAY

Yes, we all like to make sure our horses look loved - but you really don’t need to brush out his tail very often. In fact, each time you brush it, you’re doubtless removing many strands. Don’t use a comb on your horse’s tail. Use a wide brush (preferably one that has been designed specifically for manes and tails), and always use a good quality detangler or leave in conditioner that has been specifically made for horses. (Human products tend to dry out the skin, so we hear!) Start by picking out any bedding or shavings from the tail, apply your detangler or leave in conditioner, and work it through the tail with your fingers first. You might find this to be adequate and you may not have to use a brush. Using your fingers will keep more hairs in the tail, rather than pulling our knots. If it’s the day before competition, you’ll need to brush out the tail. Using your brush, start from the bottom of the tail and work your way up to the dock, brushing only a small section at a time. Dry hair is less likely to break easily - so wait until the tail is dry before you brush it.

A good detangler or leave in conditioner will also assist in preventing tail breakage, as it should help to coat the hair and keep matts and large tangles from forming as quickly.

KEEP IT NEAT

Trim your horse’s tail every once in a while - regardless of how long you like it, trimming the tail and removing split ends will help to keep the hair healthy.

COVERING UP?

Sometimes protection is one of the only ways to go when you want to encourage tail growth and prevent damage. Tail bags should not be used full time - use common sense. Your horse’s wellbeing should come before the aesthetics of his tail. Having said that, tail bags and other products available that wrap and protect the tail can be used short term to encourage growth and to keep the tail clean and knot free. Always be careful when applying tail bandages and tail bags. Never tie anything around the dock and always ensure that tail bandages aren’t on too tightly. Circulation to the dock can be cut off much too easily, and can cause terrible injuries if left unchecked or if fitted incorrectly. Ensure that if you’re plaiting the tail to keep it together under a tail bag that you do not plait tightly. Tight plaits can be just as bad as an ill-fitting tail bandage!

Another advantage of using a tail bag short term is that you are free to apply products to condition the hair and assist hair growth without it being washed out of the tail almost immediately as the tail is exposed to the weather.

DID YOU KNOW

The horse's skin can become dry and dull due to parasites, poor nutrition, allergies or hormonal imbalances. A natural, moisturising shampoo can help to keep the coat clean and well nourished.

WASHING YOUR HORSE

Don’t over wash your horse! Washing your horse too often can strip the coat of it’s natural oils. These natural oils keep the coat and skin from becoming too dry, (they have a natural moisturising effect) and actually do provide a natural sheen on the coat of a healthy horse.

When you do wash your horse, only use high quality products made specifically for horses, and try to limit the use of anything containing harsh chemicals. A product that contains harsh chemicals might provide a good short term result may not be healthy for the horse’s skin and coat - and you might be causing long term damage. Look for products that are gentle on the horse’s skin.

Colour enhancing shampoos can work wonders on faded coats, and can help to restore vibrant bold colours in the case of sun bleaching. Shampoos designed to whiten markings are particularly useful for show preparation, or to have your horse looking his best for your next dressage test.  Investing in good quality products will give you the best result and will prove to be the best value for money.

TAIL RUBBING

Horses may rub their own tails out for a variety of reasons, which can be not only frustrating for the horse’s owner, but also for the horse. Excessive rubbing of the tail (on fence posts, trees, stable doors or whatever the horse can find) indicates that the area is itchy. One of the most common causes in this situation is parasites - most commonly, pinworms. Always ensure your horse is wormed regularly and is on a rotational worming program. Your horse’s rump and tail might be itchy if lice are present, or if your horse has been irritated by insects or sensitivity to insects (including cases of Queensland Itch). Food allergies have also been known to cause itchy skin and hair loss, as can shampoo residue or sweat left in the coat and tail hair.

DID YOU KNOW?

It is estimated that the average horse's tail takes SEVEN YEARS to grow from dock to fetlock.

To prevent your horse from rubbing his tail out, take the following steps...

* Ensure the horse is on a regular and correct worming program.

* Thoroughly wash and rinse the tail and dock with an anti-bacterial shampoo. You may need to repeat this process every few days. Use a product safe for your horse’s skin and take care not to pick scabs or irritate any inflamed areas. Be sure to remove all suds and residue from the tail, and use the shampoo according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

* If the skin on the dock is scurfy or dry, try a moisturising shampoo to alleviate itching from dryness.

* Check for signs of fungal infection - hairless patches and raw ‘scaly’ looking skin can be indicators that you require an anti-fungal remedy.

* Ensure exposure to biting insects is minimised. This may mean purchasing a fly sheet rug or adding a tail bag to your horse’s existing rugs to prevent insect irritation in the area.

* Thoroughly examine the tail for lice or any other visible signs of infestation, infection, or symptoms of any other problem.

* If symptoms persist or if they are particularly severe, contact your vet for advice.

DID YOU KNOW

The horse's skin is it's largest organ. The skin can be between half an inch to and inch thick, depending on the part of the horse.

TIPS & HINTS

FEEDING FOR COLOUR

Some horse owners avoid or select supplements that can have an effect on the horse’s coat colour.  We found some great gems online, although we’re not sure just how effective they are...

Molasses MAKES THE COAT DARKER?

Apparently feeds rich in molasses darken the coat. In the case of palominos, it can cause ‘smutting’ - or darkening of the coat. Feeding molasses to chestnut horses is said to bring out a rich, liver colour. Some argue that protein, fat and high levels of trace minerals are the culprits of smutting - so some owners avoid certain feeds in the hope that their palominos remain golden!

BABY POWDER

Apply to white markings after washing your horse (once his legs have dried off completely). You can use it after using a whitening shampoo to help keep whites white, and it’s great for last minute touch ups before you enter the arena or show ring.

BI-CARB SODA/BAKING SODA

An all natural cleaner for white markings, baking soda mixed with a bit of water can be scrubbed in to remove dirt and mud.

VINEGAR

A solution of half white vinegar and half water is said to help the coat repel flies - and also reportedly repels dirt and gives the coat a shine. You can also try wiping this solution on with a damp rag between classes.

SKINNY HOODS & LYCRA

Skinny hoods and lyrca work wonders, as they assist in polishing the hair as the horse moves, leaving the coat shinier. They are also extremely useful for keeping the horse clean - particularly before shows. As with any equipment or rugs, ensure the skinny hood fits correctly before leaving it on your horse.

This article was originally published in the July 2013 issue of The Stable Magazine – Australia’s FREE Online Horse Magazine. Read this article and many more online at www.thestablemagazine.com