Hoof Care Fact & Fiction

 

From the June 2014 issue of The Stable Magazine – www.thestablemagazine.com/june2014

One of the great things about the horse world is that everyone has an opinion, but sometimes we get a little misinformed about what’s accurate, proven and correct, and what isn’t. We take a look at some things we’ve heard recently regarding hoof care, and whether there’s any truth to what is being said... 

#1 - BLACK HOOF IS STRONGER THAN WHITE HOOF, AND WHITE HOOVES ARE INFERIOR

While many in the horse world believe this to be true, there have been studies carried out that suggest there is no difference in the strength or makeup of hooves without pigment or colouring (white hooves) and their darker counterparts. Certainly poor hoof quality seems more relative to horse’s living conditions, previous care and management, nutritional adequacy or deficiency, and in some cases, certain horses just seem to have stronger, more hardy hooves than others. Hoof colouration is related to the colour of the hair at the coronet band, so horses with socks or stockings generally have white hooves, while horses of a dark colour or horses with dark ‘points’ have black hooves. Mixed horn colour can also occur in the case of pintos, appaloosas, or in horses with ‘ermine’ markings - small black ‘dot’ markings often found in white socks just on the coronet band. Old proverbs tell tales of horses with four white feet being thought to be a lot of trouble, while one white sock was thought to be favourable - a reflection of hoof colour? We’re not sure - but similar proverbs warn never to buy chestnut mares!

Verdict: Fiction

#2 - YOU NEED TO WAIT AFTER YOUR HORSE IS SHOD BEFORE YOU RIDE.

This is one that we hadn’t come across in quite a long time, but apparently, there has been a general consensus that horses shouldn’t be ridden straight after receiving a new set of shoes. The simple answer is, that if your horse is healthy, if his hooves are in good condition, and if your farrier has done a good job, your horse should not be footsore when one set of shoes is removed, his hooves are trimmed, and a new set is put on.

Verdict: Fiction

#3 - BAREFOOT HORSES REQUIRE LESS FREQUENT TRIMS THAN THEIR SHOD COUNTERPARTS

Um.. not necessarily. Horses hooves require a trim every six to eight weeks. Shoes may require more attention if your horse has poor quality hooves, which can cause shoes to loosen, or shoes to the thrown early, but generally, all horses hooves will require attention at regular intervals. Seasonally, your horse’s hooves may grow more rapidly  or slowly depending on the weather and climate. The amount of riding you are doing, and the surfaces you are riding on will also have an impact on how regularly your horse may require a trim or a new set of shoes.

Verdict: Fiction

#5 - HORSE’S FRONT HOOVES ARE MORE ROUND THAN THE REAR HOOVES.

Your horse’s front hooves are in fact, a more round shape in comparison to the hind hooves, which have more of an oval shape to them. Consequently, there is a marked difference between a front horseshoe and a rear one. Most horse owners have heard horror stories of apprentice farriers applying the wrong shoe to the wrong foot. No matter the farrier, the shoe should always be shaped to fit the hoof, not the hoof shaped to fit the shoe!

Verdict: Fact

#4 - THE MORE SUPPLEMENTS YOU FEED, THE BETTER YOUR HORSE’S FEET WILL BE, AND THEY WILL GROW FASTER.

A healthy horse’s hoof grows down from the coronet band at the rate of around 1cm per month. If your horse has poor quality hooves, or extremely slow-growing hooves, then supplementation may assist in improving the condition of your horse’s feet. When it comes to nutrition, horses require a careful balance of minerals, trace minerals, vitamins and other building blocks (like proteins and amino acids) to maintain body processes and grow new tissue. If your horse’s existing diet is lacking vital nutrients, the addition of ONE good quality supplement can help to improve hoof growth rate and quality. Dietary deficiencies can also cause horses hooves to become brittle, they may crack, chip, split or break away, which can cause lameness and can encourage bacterial and fungal infections, including abscesses and seedy toe. The addition of more than one supplement (depending on the content of what you are adding to your feed) may still result in deficiencies, or worse, an imbalance in your horse’s diet. You must also take into account the nutrients your horse already receives from his feed. In any case, stacking supplements on top of supplements will most likely not be beneficial - nor will feeding a double dose. Always feed according to the manufacturers instructions, and ask your vet if you’re ever in doubt.

Verdict: Fiction

Did you know? The horse’s hoof can absorb up to 80% of impact when being ridden under saddle?

#6 - IF YOUR HORSE’S HOOVES ARE CRACKED, HE NEEDS SHOES ON

Weak hooves may not actually stand up to having shoes on. Nailing shoes into very dry and brittle hoof ‘horn’ can cause the hoof to crack, and may result in the horse losing the shoe. This can result in the horn breaking away along with the clenches (nails in the horseshoe). Often farriers are blamed for this happening, when in fact, it is often more to do with the condition of the horse’s hooves. Daily care and correct nutrition can go a long way to feeding the hoof and improving its condition. Some horses may do better without shoes, but as with all veterinary issues, horses should be assessed by qualified professionals and decisions made on a case-by-case basis.

Verdict: Fiction

#7 - HOT SHOEING IS PAINFUL FOR THE HORSE

Hot and cold shoeing are both widely practiced in Australia. Data we collected suggests that there is not much difference between the two methods if they are carried out by a qualified professional who is a master of his trade. Hot fitting does burn the very surface of the hoof, and this allows the farrier to visibly determine where exactly the shoe is sitting on the hoof - leaving a visible indicator of where the shoe has made contact with the hoof and where it has not, allowing the farrier to further (and more accurately) shape the shoe to fit the hoof. There is no evidence to suggest that hot shoeing is painful or uncomfortable if carried out correctly.

Verdict: Fiction

#9 - GLUE IS MADE FROM HOOVES

Well, no. Not conventional glue that you’d buy at the supermarket or stationery supplier, although what is known as ‘hoof glue’ is still used by some woodworkers today. The idea that a slow racehorse was going ‘to the glue factory’ actually did have relevance in that many ancient cultures, and indeed, throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, horses would have in fact, been sent to glue factories. However, once PVC and other synthetic adhesives were manufactured, glue made from the hides and hooves of animals (and not just horses, either!) became much less common. Interestingly, any glue made from animal hide or hooves was water soluble, and could be broken by the application of alcohol to dry out the glue and make it brittle enough to crack. It was also used as a varnish and to prepare canvas, and was solid at room temperature, and, much like the glue from a hot glue gun, was heated into a liquid form and brushed on to the surface to which adhesive was required. So no, the glue we buy today does not contain horses hooves, but yes - in the past, glues made from animal hide and hooves was widely used for a variety of purposes.

Verdict: Fact… Sort of!

#10 - YOU SHOULD SOAK YOUR HORSE’S HOOVES IN WATER TO KEEP THEM WELL HYDRATED

There are many opinions on whether the horse’s hooves should be soaked daily to assist in the retention of moisture in the hoof. Some owners (and indeed, equestrian professionals) recommend the soaking of your horse’s hooves for 15 minutes a day - others will strongly recommend you do not soak your horse’s hooves, citing the fact that if the horse is well hydrated, then generally the hooves will contain adequate moisture. What we do know is that horses on either end of the spectrum (with either very dry or very wet hooves) are more likely to suffer from weak hoof structure. Hooves do require moisture, as the hoof wall structure is around 25% water, the frog, up to 50%. It is important to remember that the hoof is a flexible capsule that does expand and contract, can become dry or too wet, and does, at times, require assistance and nourishment to remain in optimum condition.

Verdict: Undecided!

Barefoot vs traditional farriery

(Nope, we’re not opening a can of worms just yet!)

This, as a topic, is much better left to a future  ‘ask the experts’ article in our opinion. We do, however have some thoughts that we hope you’ll take into consideration, whether or not you choose to use a farrier or a barefoot trimmer.

* Qualifications and trainingare very important. Don’t let just anyone work on your horse. Ask for testimonials, recommendations from your friends, and ask about the relevant training your professional trimmer or farrier has.

* LOOK FOR RESULTS! Keep in mind that improvements in your horse’s feet can take time to become evident. Try not to chop and change your hoof trimmer or farrier - find one who handles your horse nicely, answers your questions, and who has a plan to improve your horse’s hooves. Allow them time to set things right. If at any stage alarm bells are ringing, ask your vet for advice.

Thank you to The Stable Magazine for this article, which was originally published in their June 2014 issue. Check out The Stable Magazine online now for FREE. Read this article and many more at www.thestablemagazine.com