Horse Care Info - by Horse Rescue Australia

[h=3]Horse Care Info – by Horse Rescue Australia[/h]
[h=3]www.horserescue.com.au[/h]

Here at HRA we are committed to the education of the public on the correct and responsible care of horses and ponies in order to reduce the occurrence of cruelty. Often horses become neglected not by outright cruelty but simply be the ignorance of their owners.
Too often do people purchase horses just to "keep the grass" down without thinking about the fact that the grass will soon be gone. Quite often horses are placed in a paddock with loads of grass and some water and then simply forgotten about. The grass is eaten, the water dries up and soon there are problems. If these owners only knew about the actual needs of horses this might not have happened. Also unfortunately a lot of parents give into their children's wishes for a pony without putting enough thought or planning into it. Looking after a horse is a major commitment to your life - think of it like having another child. A lot of times children lose interest, and it's the parents who end up looking after the horse/s.
That is why HRA is committed to helping people understand the needs that horses have, and explaining to first time horse owners just what is actually involved in owning a horse - the actual purchase is the easiest and cheapest part!

Horse Health Basics
Everybody who owns, rides or handles horses should know their horse’s vital signs. These simple checks will help tell if your horse is healthy or if you will have to call the vet. By being able to tell your veterinarian these simple but crucial parameters during an emergency (often when you have to give information over the phone), you will get more accurate and appropriate treatment for your horse.
Your horse’s vital signs should be regularly monitored. It may be a good idea to write them in a diary and keep a note on the horse’s behaviour and general condition. This will give you an idea of what your horse’s normal vital signs are. You should either purchase a pre-prepared first aid kit (you can buy them from your local veterinarian) or make up one yourself. Your first aid kit needs to contain the following items: Digital Thermomitor , Stethescope , Vet Wrap bandages
If you witness any signs which may alert you to a problem with your horse. It is always wise to seek the advice of your veterinarian sooner rather than later as the earlier a vet can examine your horse the more time they will have treat the problem
Temperature - How to measure
The best way to take the horse's temperature is rectally. Keep a plastic digital thermometer in your medical kit. They are safe, easy to use, inexpensive and available at most pharmacies and are operated by pressing a button to turn them on. Simply lubricate with petroleum jelly (Vaseline) and insert the thermometer into the horse's rectum.
“Always clean the thermometer well before returning it to its case...and especially if used on an ill horse, to prevent the spreading of an illness.”
It may take one to three minutes for an accurate reading, although many digital thermometers take readings quickly and beep when they are done. Simply read the digital display for the horse's temperature. (Note: So you don't lose the thermometer in your horse, attach a piece of string to the handle end along with an alligator clip. When the thermometer is inserted, fasten the alligator clip to tail hairs, thus securing it!)
Understanding the information: Normal body temperature is 37-38° C, but environmental factors can affect the readings by 0.5-1° C. Horses tend to have higher temperatures in warm weather. Exercise, stress or excitement will raise temperature as well. This is why it's important to take your horse's temperature many times and in many different situations so you will know what the norm is. Respiratory colds and infected cuts usually generate temperatures in the 39-40°C range. Viral infections cause either early subnormal temperatures (similar to chills one feels with a viral cold) or very elevated temperatures, 41-42°C.
Occasionally, infections will cause biphasic fevers that show a normal temperature in the morning, but will spike a high temperature in the afternoon. When you are concerned about possible illness, record the horse's temperature twice a day and look for patterns and changes.
Pulse - How to measure
The pulse in the horse can be taken from an area under the jaw, from beneath the tail at its bone, or from an area on the side of the horse's foot. Since most horses will not stand still enough to count heartbeats for a full minute, count for 15 seconds and multiply by four.
“Be sure to count each lub-dub as 1 beat.”
Understanding the information: The pulse measures the rate and strength of the heartbeat. A normal resting horse has a heart rate of 38-40 beats per minute, foals (70-120 bpm), yearlings (45-60 bpm) and 2 year olds (40-50 bpm).
Maximum heart rates can exceed 180 beats per minute, but a rate above 80 should be considered serious in most non-exercising horses. Heart rates that stay above 60 in a horse that is calm can be a sign of trouble. Exercise, stress, fear, pain and excitement will elevate the horse's heart rate. Infection will cause an increased rate, as will traumatic cuts, kicks, fractures and so forth.
The most common cause of elevated heart rate is colic or intestinal pain. Such pain can cause mild to severe elevations, and the degree of increase can be a sign of the severity of the colic pain.
The intensity or force of the pulse is sometimes an indicator of other problems in the horse. A weak or soft pulse means the heart is not pumping forcefully and may indicate heart disease. A hard, forceful pulse can be felt in a horse that has been exercising and is pumping a lot of blood to carry oxygen to working muscles.
This forceful pulse can also be felt as a reaction by the body to some drugs, toxins or some disease conditions. Knowing your horse's normal heart rate and pulse quality allows you to make comparisons in order to evaluate situations and judge your horse's response.
Respiration
The average respiration rate of a mature horse at rest is 8-15 breaths per minute. A horse's respiration rate increases with hot or humid weather, exercise, fever or pain. Rapid breathing at rest should receive veterinary attention, and keep in mind that the respiration rate should NEVER exceed the pulse rate. A horse should also spend equal time inhaling and exhaling. You should wait at least 30 minutes after work before checking the respiratory rate at rest to obtain a true reading.
How to understand the respiration rate: Watch or feel your horse's ribcage/belly for one minute. Be sure to count 1 inhale and 1 exhale as one breath (not as two). Each breath is fairly slow. If you are having difficulty seeing the ribcage move, try watching the horse's nostrils or place your hand in front of the nostrils to feel the horse exhale.
An even better method is to place a stethoscope to the horse's windpipe to listen to his breathing. This will also give you strange sounds if the horse's windpipe is blocked by mucous or if the he has allergies or heaves.
Gut Sounds
The gut sounds that come from your horse's stomach and intestines can be very important information, which your vet uses to diagnose an illness. Gut sounds should always be present. The absence of gut sounds is more indicative of a problem than excessive gut sounds. Usually, an absence of gut sounds indicates colic. If you don't hear any sounds, contact your veterinarian.
How to check for gut sounds: Press your ear up against your horse's barrel just behind his last rib. If you hear gurgling noises, he's fine. Be sure to check gut sounds from both sides.
If you do not hear any sounds, try using a stethoscope in the same area
Dehydration
Healthy horses drink a minimum of 20 litres of water per day. If your horse is dehydrated, it is very important that you urge him to drink. If he refuses to drink water, try adding flavour to it (molasses or cordial is ideal), and contact your veterinarian if he still won't drink. During hot, humid conditions horses should drink a lot more. A horse in race training in these conditions may drink up to 70 litres per day. To ensure you have an indication of your horse’s water consumption, it may be wise to use buckets instead of waterers if horses are continually stabled.
How to perform a pinch test: Pinch the skin on your horse's neck. If the skin flattens back into place in less than 1 second when you let go, the horse is fine. If it doesn't, it means he isn't drinking enough water and is dehydrated.
The longer the skin stays pinched up before flattening, the more dehydrated the horse is.
Capillary Refill Time (CRT)
Capillary Refill Time (CRT) is the time it takes for blood to return to blanched tissues in the gums. This is an indicator of blood circulation. Normal refill time is 1 to 2 seconds.
How to check CRT: Lift your horse's upper lip up and firmly press your thumb against his gums for 2 seconds to create a white mark. This white mark should return to the normal pink colour within 1-2 seconds after releasing the pressure.
Mucous Membrane
The mucous membranes are the lining of a horse's eyelids, his gums and the inside of his nostrils. The colour of the mucous membranes, are another indicator of blood circulation. A healthy horse's gums are slightly paler than a human. If a horse's gums are very pale, bright red, greyish blue or bright yellow, call a veterinarian immediately.
Advice for buying your first Horse...
Owning a horse is a huge responsibility that you may have for the entire life of your horse. A horse can live well into its 20’s and even sometimes into it’s 30’s, and they need extra care and attention as they age. If you are making a commitment to keep your horse for life remember that may be a very long time.
Owning a horse comes with many rewards, but it also means a lot of hard work and often unpleasant chores. These chores include such things as collecting manure, repairing fences, feeding in the rain and cold, cleaning out water troughs, waiting for the vet in the middle of the night, and so the list goes on.
It is also very important to understand that the initial purchase of your horse is the cheapest part of the deal!
You will have to consider whether the horse will be kept in a paddock, or whether it will be stabled. If you do not have your own property you will have to pay agistment – this can cost anything between $15 per week to $150 - $200 per week. If you do own your own property there are still costs involved in fencing, pasture management, building of shelters and so on. Once built these all have to be maintained.
You need to know about feeding and its likely costs. Even paddock horses will need some supplementary feed when grass becomes eaten down. During the drought bales of Lucerne hay soared to prices of over $20 per bale. Feed prices fluctuate throughout the year, so you will have to budget extra money for those times.
You will need to purchase brushes to groom your horse, a feed bin to feed him out of, something to keep his water in, a first aid kit (for both yourself and your horse!). You may also decide to rug your horse during the colder winter months, or even lightly during summer. Unless you are extremely lucky your rugs will need to be repaired, and then replaced every couple of years.
If you have a riding horse, you will also need a bridle, a correctly fitting saddle, saddle blanket, lunge ropes, gloves etc etc etc. It is a good idea to ask about the cost of these items first as they can be very expensive unless you take time and care in their selection. Remember that a safe storage area is needed for your equipment when it is not being used on the horse.
There will also be fees for shoeing/trimming every six to eight weeks – ranging from $20 – $25 for a trim up to $100 for shoeing; for regular preventative measures against diseases such as tetanus and strangles (annually); dentist visits (annually) – and worm control. The possibility of unexpected expense because of illness or injury should be remembered. Veterinary care is not a cheap commodity, and you don’t want to be in the situation of not being able to afford to pay for the care your horse needs and deserves.
These are the basic necessities for your horse. Your own riding outfit has to be purchased as well, and this must include a suitable helmet and good quality riding boots. If you wish to go to Pony Club or attend shows you can add fees on top of all the other costs.
If you have read the above and have decided that you still HAVE TO HAVE your horse, then please read on
Choosing your Horse
If this is your first horse, a person with a good knowledge of horses should go to inspect the horse with you. Make sure the person selling the horse knows the use you have in mind for the horse. Beware of buying a horse from someone who is selling many horses (other than a breeder or Stud) as they may not know the horse’s full history and may have only bought that horse a few weeks ago themselves. Also beware of buying horses from the sales for the same reason.
Be wary of unbroken horses and young or green horses. There is an old saying – “green on green makes black and blue”. If you are new to horses, look for an experienced horse that has been there and done that – then “YOU” can concentrate on learning without having to also teach the horse.
If you are buying a horse for your children, cheapest is probably not going to be the best. A safe pony for your children to learn to ride on and help build their confidence is worth a million dollars – so you may have to pay dearly for it, but your children’s safety and your peace of mind will make it worth it.
Don’t rush in and buy the first horse you look at. If you are buying a riding horse, arrange to ride it yourself on a number of occasions, and ask if possible for a month’s trial. This will give you time to ensure that you and the horse are a good match. Ask the person you are buying the horse from not to have the horse caught or saddled when you arrive, you want to see all these things happen yourself. This will give you a good idea of the horse’s nature. If you are satisfied you have found ‘your’ horse, then it is extremely important to have an experienced horse vet check ‘your’ horse out and then discuss with you anything about the horse that you are unsure of.
Where to keep your Horse
Ideally, your horse should be kept in a paddock of 1 hectare (minimum 0.4 hectare). The paddock should have some natural or man-made shelter, good grass cover, and access to clean, fresh water.
The paddock should be properly fenced (not with barbed wire) and with the fence easily seen by horses. Free from all rubbish, especially old wire and iron. Close enough to home to permit daily visits (if there is not 24 hr supervision). The paddock should be kept free of droppings in order to discourage flies and aid in worm control and you will need a suitable for catching and working the horse.
Shelter:
Horses need shelter from heat, wind and rain. Natural shelter such as a belt of trees or a hedge is suitable, but you may prefer to provide a stable or shade shelter to supplement or substitute for natural shelter. Stables should be at least 2.5 metres high and should have a floor area of at least 12 square metres (for horses) or 9 square metres (for ponies and donkeys). They must be constructed and maintained to be secure and to minimise any risk of injury. If you have more than one horse, the entry/exit area must be large enough to prevent one horse from trapping another one inside. Good drainage and ventilation are needed, and fire fighting equipment should be kept close at hand.
Remember that old horses need special care and should have a warm waterproof rug in addition to other protection from the elements.
Friends:
Horses are sociable herd animals and don’t like to be kept in isolation for long periods. Even one other horse makes a herd. If you cant have another horse in the same paddock with your’s, a horse in the paddock next door that he can see over the fence will help him. If there are absolutely no other horse’s in the area and you can’t have more than one horse, at least try to get your horse a companion such as a cow, goat or sheep.
Supervision:
You need to be able to check on your horse at least once a day. If your horse is being cared for by other people, or if you are not able to visit it every day, make sure that a responsible person who sees your horse daily is able to contact you in an emergency, or summon veterinary assistance on your behalf.
Looking after your Horse
A commonsense approach to horse ownership is best for you and your horse. Remember the following important aspects of good horsemanship:
Provide only good quality feed.
Always have clean, cool water available for your horse.
Do not work your horse immediately after a heavy feed.
Always clean your horse’s feet before and after riding to prevent foot injury from stones, sticks or metal objects that may have become embedded in its feet.
Make sure your saddle is kept clean, the girth is cleaned and that the saddle blanket is washed regularly.
Always check your saddle for pressure areas due to shifting lining, packing, or dried leather girths or saddle flaps.
Never work your horse for long periods until you have properly conditioned the animal through slower regular workouts.
Remember that horses have good memories—they can learn bad habits as easily as good ones.
Register yourself as a client and your horse as a patient with the veterinarian of your choice. He or she will be able to advise you on a regular program for worm control, vaccinations, and tooth and foot care.
Enlist the help of a trained professional if you are having major problems with your horses behaviour
Feeding your Horse
Your horse should be fed to maintain body condition, and should not be allowed to get too fat or too thin. What you feed your horse will depend on the amount of pasture you have access to, and the amount of exercise your horse is receiving.
Good quality pasture grass is the simplest and most natural feed. Where good pasture is available and the horse is not ridden regularly, there is probably no need to for supplementary feeding. However, when pasture declines additional feed will be required to maintain bodyweight.
Hay and concentrates are suitable for this purpose. Good quality Lucerne or legume/grass hay is adequate for adult horses that are idle or ridden infrequently.
Young growing animals, lactating mares, and hard working horses require more energy. This is usually supplied by feeding concentrate supplements such as grain or a complete pellet.
It is best to feed little and often (2-3 times daily) and feed plenty of bulk, such as good quality hay.
Horses also need access to salt and to a regular supply of fresh clear water—up to 25–45 litres daily may be needed in hot weather. Horses don’t like to drink hot water, so try to keep your horse’s water supply in the shade, and keep it clean and fresh by cleaning the container regularly.
Sometimes other mineral supplements may be needed and your veterinarian will be able to advise you further on this
Feet and Teeth Care
Foot care
Every time a horse is handled its feet should be inspected for damage or soreness and particularly for stones or glass embedded in the frog. If the animal is shod a check must be made for stones between shoe and frog and for looseness. A hoof pick should be used to clean the feet.
Horses to be ridden on roads or rough ground or to be given heavy work may need to be shod. Shod horses should be inspected by a Farrier at least every six weeks for replacement or adjustment of shoes. Unshod or barefoot horses should have their hooves trimmed as necessary every 6 to 8 weeks.
Teeth
Horses aged 2–5 years of age should have their teeth at 6–monthly intervals. Horses should have their teeth checked at least once a year after reaching the age of five. You should have this should be done by a qualified equine dentist.
A horse with bad teeth cannot eat properly and is likely to lose condition or be difficult to ride. Regular attention will make sure that your horse’s teeth are in good shape and cause him no pain.
When to call the Vet
Every horse owner should learn to assess the condition of their horse and to observe the first signs of illness so that professional veterinary aid may be called. A horse in good health is active, moves freely, eats and drinks freely, has a clear eye and nose, a clean skin and coat, and good general body condition without being too fat.
Prevention is better than cure and some problems are difficult to correct once they do occur. As a guide, your vet must be consulted immediately if your horse shows:
- acute abdominal pain or ‘colic’;
- serious injury, including deep wounds, severe haemorrhage, suspected bone fracture, or damage to eyes;
- straining for more than 30 minutes by a foaling mare;
- inability to rise or stand.
Veterinary assistance should be sought as soon as possible if your horse has:
- marked lameness or injuries not responding to treatment within 24 hours;
- persistent signs of a cold, accompanied by loss of appetite;
- severe diarrhoea or persistent weight loss;
- persistent skin conditions.
Transporting your Horse
Even if you are not going to be taking your horse out to shows or transporting him very often, you need to know you can load your horse into a float or truck in an emergency situation. Such situations could be a bushfire, an emergency visit to the vet, flood or just the fact you need to move your horse to a new location. It is always best to be able to practice loading your horse when you are not in a rush to get somewhere.
Horses are naturally claustrophobic, so it is no wonder so many people and horses have trouble with float loading. If you cannot safely load your horse into a float there are many professionals you can contact in order to get help.